Late night ramblings

It is the time of night that I ought to be sleeping and soon, but instead am thinking of my time so far in a foreign place, not the first time of course, but the first time I've lived in a foreign country, the first time I've referred to myself and my fellow colleagues as "expats," all teachers in kind, all relating to the same woes and joys, transient friends, acquaintances, but always the promise of the new, fond memories of the old, which is how I hope to end this journey, well, this part of the journey, before I return to the glitter and excitement of...New York? Most likely. I still fall in love with D.C. every single time I indulge in an episode of The West Wing. Which most certainly is an indulgence, as it is such a far cry from the, from my lowly perspective as a mere English teacher, the laidback atmosphere of Korea. Everything moves in slow motion here, which may be relaxing to some, but only makes me more impatient. If I spoke the language, perhaps things would move quicker, and I am doing my best to overcome this barrier. Somehow, I still get the impression that it isn't simply a matter of language, communication goes beyond words as I can certaintly attest to as a teacher. I can't help but think those of us living in Korea are somehow seperated from the bustle of real life, paid apartments, guaranteed employment, no worries of businesses shutting down, can always pick up a new position somewhere else with little to no trouble.

It's funny how the slow moving aspects are the most convenient, and cheapest, as well. The spas, luxuriate all day if one likes, in hot or cold soothing mineral water, overlook the mountains or the sea....take a moment to, or a half hour, for a deep massage and cooling facial, after which one proceeds to plunge into the cold pool for a sharp dip that wakes one up once again, then lets oneself fall back into a half-sleep in one of the hot pools. And while you will pay dearly for Western food, inferior in quality but just as expensive if not more so, the Korean places are delicious (mashita!) and flavorful and spicy, although not as spicy as the Koreans would have you believe, it won't scorch your insides but you may drink a bit more water than with a more mildly spiced concoction. And the inevitable dish of kim chee to spicen things up, if the food should prove too mild for your taste. Or at any rate, some sort of pickles, which Koreans do feel a very strong need to serve with dishes which both dovetail nicely into the overall meal (some meat dish) or not...such as my spaghetti carbonara from the other night.

Sometimes its nice to just chill with an icy glass of beer on a nice terrace, or drink strawberry juice and eat jam and bread at a book & care, being sure to sit near the windows, in order to people-watch, which really, is the best and maybe only thing to do in a foreign country, or any foreign location that isn't "home." Here the women all wear heels and very short skirts or shorts and long shirts that cover their shoulders.

And now, my very Korean cat, although she speaks English, I'm quite sure, is missing me, so I will take a break from writing for now and get some much needed rest.

Another lazy Sunday....

It's a lazy Sunday, so of course I'm writing. In the ten minutes I have before Socrates Cafe. I treated myself, a small treat considering the cost, to the public bathhouse yesterday afternoon. I love the peaceful feeling, sitting, relaxing, enjoying the view of the ocean. I must try another someday, but I really do like this one. A little girl kept following me around this time, shy, only 2 years old, but she thought I was pretty. She wouldn't talk to me, though, even though her sister kept prodding her.

Afterwards, I felt I could really treat myself to a nice dinner. Italian, at this lovely restaurant just outside of the spa, and quite reasonable for being Italian. 15,000 won for pasta, "garlic" bread, and dessert. I shall explain the quote marks in a minute. I was naturally hesistant over the pasta, but as it turned out the carbonara sauce was very flavorful and lots of bacon, not the best I've ever had, but good, although the "Pettucini" turned out to be spaghetti (of course!) But the GARLIC bread.... The waiter came by and placed a basket with two grilled butter slices of bread and a packet of strawberry jam. Mildly confused, I spread the jam on the bread anyway and it was quite delicious. But not garlicky. I attempted to present this dilemma to the waiter who proceeded to present me with another portion of jam and bread, which I ate. When I'd finished he recited a list of desserts, coffee, Sprite....and when he got to ice cream, I gratefully said "Yes." (yes, a real desssert!) I sat, there, terrace overlooking the sea, book in lap, gorgeous view, so serene and romantic. And walked slowly, deliberately almost, back to the beach, along the beach, bus home, and read the last of my copy of Siddhartha which I had picked up the other day at the bookstore.

Japan

If it kills me, I will make it to Japan. Just once.

Korean Rules of Living: Part One

Wear the shortest skirt/long shirt possible, but don't ever show your shoulders.
I basically fail at this one. I don't actually own a pair of shorts at the moment and the only time I wear short short skirts is over jeans (although in Korea its typical to wear them over leggings). I own two sundresses that possess spaghetti straps and a third that is strapless. I am currently wearing jeans, a belt with a really cool interweaving tarnished silver (not real of course) buckle, and a gray spaghetti strap tank top. Very American.

Always keep an umbrella on you, or a parasol to keep the sun off your face.
God forbid any sun should touch your face and ruin your delicate complexion. It's odd to Americans, but paleness is encouraged here. Back home, one is made fun of for being "blindingly white." Here its a bit of a social stigma. It's not good to be too dark. Also, Koreans have a crazy ability to pull out umbrellas from seemingly nowhere, so instead of mass hysteria running around with newspapers over one's head, they actually have full-sized umbrellas. I have yet to master this.

Drink very weak coffee, but strong, frequent alcohol.
I am sure the Long Island Ice teas are stronger here than at home. Perhaps not the other drinks, but Koreans drink in quantity to make up for any lower alcohol content. The coffee however, is mostly instant, served in small paper cups. You press a button on a machine and the cup pops down and the coffee and hot water streams down into it. I've gotten pretty addicted. I'm not sure if the addiction is to the coffee or the machine, though.


To be continued.

Lotte, Lotte, Lotte, LOTTE

Did I ever update on the last game? I don't remember, my mind is a bit of a blur, but I definitely have the clarity of mind to know that I must absolutely must explicate on yesterday's game. There is nothing, absolutely nothing in this world quite like baseball in Korea, and especially so in Busan. I think that's why I like it, nevermind the sheerenergy generated, the pure excitement, something almost childishly naive in pure.....enjoyment. It's the same quality that reminds me of home, that is Vegas and Nevada and my own sweet little town of Boulder City. I love that in all my travels I have yet to find a place that is like it. Chicago, New York, D.C., sure they're exciting but I've never felt the same uniqueness I feel is fated in an economy that has grown out of nothing and become a worldwide name. Where else can one move between Venice and Egypt via a monorail? And just a few minutes, almost, outside of the city limits and you are lost in a mystical, awe inspiring black velvet world pricked with diamonds and the knowledge that under this sleepy soft blanket, life stirs that only wakens when the sun goes down...and others that will creep out with the rising of the new sun.

But, I should return to the game. Something I might call "tackle football," or a combination between baseball, football, pardon me American football, and hockey. The atmosphere brought back memories of hockey games with my best friend from high school. Two injuries on the visiting team's side (which is crazy in itself, who gets injured in a ballgame?)

Meanwhile, my friend and I are intermittenly snacking on fried chicken dipped in some very odd red sauce, which, while not at all unappetizing, cannot be placed as simple "bbq," or even "sweet and sour." The Korean men below us, typically enough, are sharing fish cakes and, in my memory, have carted over a cooler full of beer (very common at Korean ballgames, and quite likely other kinds as well.) We, however, mostly get overwhelmed in the chants and I attempt to intervweave a Korean grammar lesson into the middle of the game, most of which I will probably forget by the game's end. Still, I pull out my moleskin, so out of place but I don't much care, none of the people around me are exactly watching me, we are, after all, at a game which they are much more interested in--- as am I, for that matter.

Now, let me try to put you in the game. I don't know how it occurred exactly. Perhaps I'm not familiar enough with baseball. Perhaps I glanced away to pick up a piece of fried chicken. But somehow, Garcia (Ga-Ru-Shi-ah) has thrown, thrown his bat and both teams have run out to the field and the Lotte Giants are fighting to hold Garcia back, who is hot and about to throw punches, but manages to calm down eventually. Atmosphere only intensified by a series of plays resulting in bases fully loaded, home runs by the opposing team which literally pained my heart, which was in turn gladdened every time Lotte scored. Then, in the middle of it, it starts raining. And, naturally, a sea of multi-colored umbrellas magically appear, molecules in the air, maybe, coalesce into many umbrella-shaped objects.

My friend asked me if I minded if she left, it was getting very late. But I just couldn't tear my eyes from the field. And, oh yes we went an extra winning, but the Giants pulled through at the very last second!!! Seven to six. I stayed till the very end, at which point Mother Nature graciously fully let loose her latest flood upon this city and I, with what seemed like half the town, scrambled to find transportation home. I caught the very last bus, attempted various conversations with strangers, and crashed, at last, in my very own bed. Woo!!!

A Very Korean 4th of July Weekend

Beer+Soju+Baseball= 4th of July Celebration in the Most Korean Way Possible

Dinner with Yang Yeon Kyoung

Ugh, today was a miserable run from the school, to the post office, to the bank. After what felt like an eternity--ten minutes, o-ship bun-- I finally explained that I wanted POSTCARDS and TWO letters mailed to America. At which point I had to rush to the bank to meet a fellow teacher to send a few million won back home. I barely made it, but fortunately the bank manager spoke good English and helped me differentiate between the account and routing number on my checkbook (I don't remember that sort of thing.)

After that my friend, at the last minute naturally, cancelled on me, which rather annoyed me, but I was not about to do nothing. I intially meant to take a book to the Children's Park up the street, lovely benches and lots of trees, but it was getting late and there wasn't a whole lot of sun left even considering summer hours.

But it all got better, quickly.

I made an impulsive decision to drop by Yang Yeon Kyoung's house. I trekked up the steep concrete steps, held my breath, and pressed the buzzer. A tinny "Yobuseyo?" greeted my ears, and I replied, "Chloe iyeyo." Yeon Kyoung's youngest brother opened the door.

Yeon Kyoung wasn't due home till 6:30 (at the "hagwon") and so I spent the next hour-ish playing with her brothers and looking at for the return of the girls (her sister, too). I did my best to utilize what little Korean I had in my vocabulary, assisted by my phrasebook. It's actually coming along, and will come along better. I told Yeon Kyoung tonight, "Nanun mae-il jamchim shigan-ae Hangul malhago shipayo." ("Everyday, I want to speak Korean with you at lunchtime.")

I stayed for dinner, which was pork cutlets and some rather delicious side dishes, a salty seaweed which you wrapped around rice with your chopsticks and fried fish cakes in soy sauce.

I relaxed for a bit after dinner, drinking coffee and talking to Yeon Kyoung.
Below is a sample of our conversation, "assisted" by her brother, Jae Eun.